Rei Kawakubo is the founder of Japanese fashion label Comme des Garçons. Kawakubo is inspired through "redefining fashion, subvert the norms of garment shapes and function as well as reframe ideas of beauty, and propose a new relationship between body and dress". She is influenced by making garments that have not existed before and deconstructing clothing to create new and unique pieces. To this day she is considered one of the most visionary influential designers. The exhibition 'Collecting Comme' explores the ideas and design methods that have enlightened the way Kawakubo has practised since 1981 where her first garments were presented in Paris. She is believed to be a powerful contribution and influence to contemporary fashion
When Kawakubo established ' Comme des Garçons' in 1969, she worked with many different processes. Through the virtual show I established a large list of ways she worked, which were truly inspiring. Listed below are some techniques and processes I came across when reviewing her work.
- A technique she worked with was producing pieces with a distressed nature and oversized look. This was done by "deliberately configuring the knitting machines to produce something that was not uniform or perfect." This process was seen in one of her most famous collections 'Holes'.
- She also worked a lot with specialist Japanese textile Manufacturers where she was able to produce fabrics with characteristics. One of the techniques was using ‘loom distressed weaves’ as well as repeat dying fabrics that were then crumpled, bonded and sun-bleached. This was seen through the technique 'wabi-sabi', which was a Japanese Aesthetic principle that encourages a respect for "humble materials, imperfection and the patina of age."
- A range of patch dyeing was also produced with different materials and shades of inks made from charcoal which was normally used for calligraphy in Japan. Within her designs she exposes seams and frays edges. A lot of buyers and customers were not ready for this technique and found it quite confronting.
- Another way she worked was avoiding using traditional tailoring methods that designers were using back then, she was more drawn to knotting and wrapping techniques where forms could be produced that contoured the wearers body.
- Instead of flattering the female figure she went for a more oversized look, working with asymmetric hems, bias cuts , form, fused and mismatch fabrics as well as displaced fastenings.
- The construction of each garment was constructed through deconstruction, exposing components of clothes that were normally hidden into tailoring pieces to achieve components that were normally hidden to value aspects pf the garment that were unfinished.
I have always been drawn to Kawakubo's work. I am inspired by the way she rethinks how clothes can be designed and how the designer reject conventions of gender and beauty, and even garment forms. I feel no matter what season is next her designs are always unique and appear unlike anything else. For this persona project I believe the way she works deeply with material possibility is something very unique.
Mark Schaller
Botanicus Fantasticus- 1 May – 1 July 2020
Mark Schaller is inspired by the "natural world, literature and the universe" through being an artist studying in nature instead of just a studio. He is inspired by being himself and having no one telling him what's right or wrong. He follows the way he feels whether that be irrational or rational, emotional or not emotional, sober or conservative. His work is inspired by being all these things, with unlimited curiosity seen through vibrant landscapes and fluid line work. When creating his works he is also motivated through the art movements Expressionism and Primitivism which can be seen in his pieces and ongoing art journey.
Schaller is a creative spirit that enjoys working in many different mediums across a range of disciplines such as glass, ceramics, painting, sculpture and print making. He uses these materials to respond to the changes in nature and climate through human interaction and intervention .
Techniques he works with are creating pieces with figures, landscapes, shapes and forms through fluid and continuous line work utilising a bold striking and vibrant palette.
He works through "assuming the role of the romantic, painting en plein air" as well as performing painting in the Royal Botanical Gardens, Victoria so he can respond to the way humans react in nature. A lot of his paintings I noticed had human figures intertwined with Botanical shapes using bold and colourful animated shapes to make up a scene.
I am heavily drawn to Schallers use of colour and shape. Throughout my own designs I enjoy working and matching up colour palettes that are unusual, playful and eye-catching which can be seen throughout his paintings and glass flowers. I also really enjoy the way he combines the human face and figure with nature, where you have to look again at what the painting actually presents. I believe the way he uses colour and shape especially in his water colour on ink are truly beautiful and individual to his style.
I am heavily drawn to Schallers use of colour and shape. Throughout my own designs I enjoy working and matching up colour palettes that are unusual, playful and eye-catching which can be seen throughout his paintings and glass flowers. I also really enjoy the way he combines the human face and figure with nature, where you have to look again at what the painting actually presents. I believe the way he uses colour and shape especially in his water colour on ink are truly beautiful and individual to his style.